On Saturday morning, September 14, we checked out of the Hotel Ladar. A driver picked us up at 10:30 for a ride to the Sixt Car Rental at Dubrovnik airport where we picked up our car (a Suzuki with a manual shift) to begin the second phase of our vacation!
Unfortunately, there was a lot of traffic on the ride to the airport and we didn't arrive at the car rental until 11:30 am. It was a long, scenic drive, roughly 155 miles, to the old town of Split where we were staying for two nights at Golden B & B.
Our original plan was to make plenty of beach stops en route to Split, but it didn't happen because of our late start and also the cool, cloudy weather.
We stopped by several stands along the road near Opuzen which sold local products - fresh fruits, nuts, jams and juices.
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| a colorful display of local products |
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| Gerry examines the goods at this next stand |
We made one beach stop in Tucepi, a coastal tree-lined town with a beautiful pebbly beach that is 3 km long. We walked a little along the beach and then treated ourselves to gelato.
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| Gerry in Tucepi on a cloudy day |
It was after 5:30 pm when we pulled into Split. The Golden B & B is in a prime location. The only drawback being no cars allowed in the old town of Split. We found free parking on a street a 12 minute walk from the B&B, near Marjan Park, which we planned to explore the next day.
We enjoyed a delicious dinner Saturday evening at Konoba Fratelli, a family-owned Italian and seafood restaurant located five minutes from our B&B. We sat at a table on the outside patio. We shared the sea bass entree and the seafood risotto, along with glasses of red wine and delicious homemade garlic bread.
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| we are happy diners at Konoba Fratelli |
Sunday September 15 we enjoyed our day in Split, with a very fun-filled agenda. It was unseasonably cool and cloudy. We ate breakfast on the balcony above our room. Our host talked with us, and remarked, "It's never this cold here in September!" I guess there's a first time for everything.
We walked to the center of old town Split after breakfast, a ten-minute walk. We took pictures of some of the buildings in the square and walked the narrow streets lined with cafes and shops. The shops seemed "non-tourist crap" and were quite interesting.
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| this is known as "the Peoples Square" |
I took the above photo at 9:30 am. Believe me, it got much more crowded and filled with people within the next hour.
Gerry booked us a guided tour of the Palace of Diocletian the evening before. The Emporer Diocletian had this palace built for him when he retired in the year 305.
Our tour started at 10 am, and our guide was a 40ish-year-old woman who is a native of the area. She was exceptional and gave us an excellent tour of the Palace from an insider's perspective. Fortunately, it was only us and a couple from MN on the tour, so it was private and intimate. The place was packed! We saw several other tour groups here with more than a dozen participants. Glad ours wasn't one of them.
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| a photo of some of the ancient remains |
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| this wall still stands, more than 2,000 years later |
We walked more on our own in old town Split and took more pictures. Not sure who this statue is.
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| your guess is as good (perhaps better) than mine |
The streets are very narrow in and around People's Square.
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| along a narrow street |
We shared a shrimp pizza at Konoba Fratelli for lunch. Needed the filling meal before our lovely walk in the protected nature reserve, Marjan Park, on the Marjan peninsula. The nature reserve is car-free! We walked 7.4 miles, which included a "detour" of a mile to the beach, "Plaza Kasjuni" where we took a brief swim, despite the cool and cloudy conditions.
There were lovely views on the hike, and not many people (unlike downtown Split).
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| one of many views on the hike |
Some of Marjan’s ancient churches are tucked into caves and cliffs on the peninsula’s southern side.
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| Here's Gerry at one of the ancient churches |
I also walked up and took a photo from within the church entrance, looking seaward.
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| Inside the hillside "church" on the Marjan peninsula |
The hike was lovely, and the sea beckoned us to visit, so we did. We didn't swim very long and it was worth the "detour" and the extra mileage. Here is a photo of the beach where we swam.
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| The waters are spectacular, a common theme in Croatia |
Monday, September 16, we left Split and headed to our next destination, the coastal city of Zadar.
It was roughly 95 miles, not nearly as long as the drive from Dubrovnik to Split, which allowed us to take many stops along the way.
First stop was at Kliss Fortress, a half-hour drive.
Here is the view of Kliss Fortress as we walk up the stony path and approach it.
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| approaching the Kliss Fortress |
Amazing views from above, and the Klis Fortress itself was spectacular.
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| a view from the Klis Fortress hilltop |
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| Me, at the Kliss Fortress |
We drove another hour or so and stopped at the lovely marina town of Rogoznica, where we ate a gourmet pizza for lunch (once again).
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| not too shabby, for a huge $14 seafood pizza |
Onward to Krka National Park, which was lovely. We arrived shortly after 3:00 pm. It cost us $30 entrance fee, and it was so worth the price. Spectacular scenery and waterfalls!
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| couldn't pass by this selfie opportunity in Krka |
Here are some more photos:
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| quite green and lush |
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| Would definitely revisit Krka! |
One more photo... I could go on forever, but will stop here.
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| greenery and scenery at the falls |
A lovely rural drive on our way to Zadar. I captured this sunset photo from my camera while Gerry drove us to our destination, D8 B&B on the outskirts of Zadar.
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| at 6:30 ish in the evening as we approach Zadar |
D8 was not the greatest. We were assigned an "attic room". Not ideal for tall people like us. However, the coffee and the breakfasts were wonderful.
Tuesday, September 17 was a fun day exploring Zadar. Our first stop was Vladimir Nazor Park, Zadar's biggest green space. Adjacent to Vladimir Nazor Park is the Queen Jelena Madijevka Park, which we also visited.
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| in Queen Jelena Madijevka Park with some sunshine |
Next we approached the Land Gate, which was built in 1543 and formed the entrance to the city.
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| Walking through the Land Gate |
We visited the Museum of Ancient Glass, a gem of a museum with an impressive number of ancient Roman glass objects found on archaeological sites in Zadar and it's surroundings.
There were dozens of displays throughout the museum. I especially liked this one with "juglets" from the 3rd century.
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| impressive glass work |
Within the Museum, alongside eight thematic halls that house the permanent display, there is also a specialized glassblowing demo workshop where replicas of ancient glass are made in front of visitors.
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| interesting to watch her at work |
Next stop is the large fruit and vegetable and local produce market stands which were fun to browse. Then it was onward to the Five Wells Square with the Captain's Tower. We walked up the interior winding staircase in the Tower to the outdoor vista at the top.
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| at the Five Wells Square |
Here are some views from the top of the Tower. Glad we took the climb to the top!
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| looking at the area below |
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| also looking out in the distance |
The final stop and a highlight of the day was the "Sea Organ" and the adjacent "Greeting to the Sun." If you ever make it to Zadar, the "Sea Organ" is a must see and hear! The sounds are so soothing. I understand why this area of Zadar is so popular.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n86pF-wQKrw
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| at the Sea Organ |
We returned to old town Zadar in the evening for dinner at the restaurant Skala and dined outdoors. We shared grilled squid and a mushroom pizza.
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| a fine final dinner in Zadar |
Wednesday, September 18 we drove from Zadar toward Plitvice Lakes National Park, where we would be staying at Mrzlin Grad, a charming lodge on the outskirts of Korenica. The Mrzlin Grad is a 15-minute drive from Plitvice Lakes National Park. It is approximately 90 miles from Zadar to the Mzlin Grad.
Our major stop en route was in Paklenica National Park. This national park is known for the mountain climbing. It is not as crowded as some of the other National Parks and it also has several hiking trails, most of them are rocky and challenging.
We hiked more than 6 1/2 miles in Paklenica. The weather was ideal for hiking with the cool, cloudy conditions. It was steep and rocky for the first and last mile of this out-and-back hike. We hiked the Velika Paklenica, the big gorge of park. I can see why these dramatic gorges are are quite popular with the rock-climbers.
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| a view of one of the steep canyon walls in Paklenica |
Quite the beautiful, rugged area.
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| along the rocky trail |
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| time for a selfie in Paklenica |
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| one final photo in Paklenica |
Did we ever luck out staying at the Mrzlin Grad for two nights, Sept 18 and Sept 19! Definitely, our favorite lodging in Croatia! All was amazing - the view, the food, the wood, the stone, the decor, the atmosphere and the gracious hosts.
Their restaurant, Bistro "La Ursula" is adjacent to the luxurious lodge. We dined there for dinner Weds and Thurs night, and for breakfast Thurs and Fri mornings. It was a no-brainer.
Weds evening we both ordered their smoked trout, a whole smoked Croatian trout from the local river, marinated for three days, paired with a horseradish potato salad with potatoes from the nearby Lika region. Dang! No food photos - a big mistake. However, here are some photos of the charming Bistro "La Ursula".
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| the views, the furniture, and the decor are all fabulous |
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| handmade wooden artwork graces the walls |
Thursday, September 19th was one of our favorite days of our Croatia vacation. We had heard that Plitvice Lakes National Park was one of the most beautiful places in the world. We agree!
What a splendid paradise with the numerous waterfalls and lakes. Although it was cold and rainy (temperatures in the 50s and a light rain most of the time) we had a wonderful time. We spent seven hours in this National Park and enjoyed every minute of it. I kid you not.
Walked nearly 10 miles around the various lakes, and we took a few short boat rides, which are included with the required park admission tickets.
Within minutes of our 9:00 am entry we see these waterfalls. I could stand here all day, but I don't.
Even though it's cold and cloudy, viewing the falls and the aqua-marine waters can't be beat.
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| ten minutes later |
We walked by this lake, and yes, more waterfalls at the perimeter of the lake.
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A few hours later, we walk by this lake with waterfalls. I think it is obvious why we decided to stay in this park for seven hours.
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| It's not a sunny day, and this is still so brilliant! |
Waterfalls galore, as you can see.
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Next is what is probably my favorite "shower" photo. Wouldn't it be lovely to stand here with the water cascading down upon you? FYI, no swimming is allowed in Plitvice Lakes National Park. Probably a wise decision, and why it remains so pristine.
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| the shower of my dreams |
We couldn't stop ourselves from taking photos all day long.
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| another "wow!" moment |
And how could we resist a geeky selfie photo? Believe me, we weren't the only people taking selfies.
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| final photo in Plitvice Lakes NP in the late afternoon |
Such a delightful day, and another delicious dinner at Bistro "La Ursula" later in the evening on this unseasonably cold and rainy day. I ordered their gnocchi with a mushroom sauce. The mushrooms were freshly picked by our waiter's grandfather that morning. Our waiter was the owner's son. Gerry ordered a lamb gnocchi entree. Both were delicious. Again, no photos. Oops.
Friday, Sept 20 we said goodbye to our kind host at Mrzlin Grad after the scrumptious breakfast, and we made our way to Zagreb, our final destination of the trip, about a 90 mile drive.
Cool weather once again, heavily socked in with the fog as we drove 45 minutes to our first stop, the Barac Caves, in the municipality of Rakovica. We paid $10 Euro each for a tour of the cave, which lasted 45 minutes. We learned about the history of the cave, the geological structure and archaeological findings. The cave was the former habitat of cave bear. A bronze bracelet from the Middle Ages was discovered here. Fun facts to know.
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| within the cave on our tour |
Our guide took a photo of us. We are dressed warmly as you can see. We were given helmets to wear on the tour. Excellent and safe idea for tall people like us, who are not the idea cave clientele.
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| The two of us, in the Barac Caves |
After the tour, Gerry and I walked the "Lynx Trail", a three mile pleasant walk through a forested area with an abundance of ferns and some mushrooms. We had the trail to ourselves; ideal hiking weather, cloudy and 60 degrees.
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| a variety of ferns on the ground ! |
An hour or so later we are at our next stop en route to Zagreb. It was Rastoke, where we saw the Slap "Burk", named because of the noise it makes as the water of Slunjcica River pours into the Korana River.
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| at Slap Burk |
I finally learned that "Slap"translates to Waterfalls. It only took me ten days to figure this out. I kept seeing Slap this and Slap that, on descriptions of waterfalls. Silly me, who thought "slap" was the action one did to a person who wasn't behaving appropriately at the waterfalls...
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| another "Slap" waterfall photo |
We arrived in Zagreb late afternoon and checked into our accommodation, the Casa Blanca B & B, another excellent choice. It's a nice, exquisite, quite place, with only 13 rooms, and located only a 12 minute walk from Lower Town and Upper Town Zagreb. Perfect for us. A gourmet breakfast is included in the setting of the their magical garden.
We ate dinner Friday evening at Kozel, in lower town Zagreb, a 15 minute walk from the Casa Blanca. Gerry ordered the fried squid and french fries, which he has be yearning to try since day one of the vacation. I ordered grilled squid and veggies. We shared both entrees, as we usually do.
Saturday, September 21, our last day of vacation in Croatia (boo hoo for us). Still, a fabulous day!
We indulged in the gourmet breakfast in the garden of Casa Blanca B&B, and then walked 1.5 miles to the botanical gardens which we explored for 30 minutes.
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| lily pads in the botanical gardens |
Next, we walked to the main square in Zagreb for the 11:00 am Free Spirit Tour, which lasted two hours. Our tour guide was Darko and he was excellent. We walked both Lower Town Zagreb and Upper Town Zagreb. Darko is a "war baby", born in 1992 when this nation was at war. He explained the struggles and the conflict he and his family faced, while he guided us on the tour.
A highlight was the canon firing at noon. It takes place in the upper window. Afterwards, the bells toll twelve times, to signify it is noon.
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| the canon fires, and the tourists are in awe |
The Church of St. Mark is the parish church of old Zagreb, Croatia, located in St. Mark's Square. It is one of the oldest architectural monuments in Zagreb. The best evidence is that the church must have been built as early as the 13th century
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| the iconic St. Mark's Church |
After the informative tour, Gerry and I walked around Lower Town Zagreb on our own. It was a warm day with bright blue skies.
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| at the popular Ban Jelacic square |
This is near the Zagreb Cathedral, which is temporarily closed for reconstruction.
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| a very tall cathedral in the square |
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| quite the statue adjacent to the Cathedral |
We returned to the Casa Blanca B and B in Zagreb and got our duffels packed and organized so that we could eat breakfast at 8:00 am and then check out and drive to the airport.
Then we ventured into Upper Town Zagreb one final time for dinner at La Struk. We ate in the lovely garden and ordered their homemade strukli, which are made to order.
Strukli is a Croatian specialty. It's a pastry stuffed with cream cheese and baked in the oven. We chose the savory options and ordered a pumpkin seed strukli and a truffle strukli. Both dishes were tasty, filling, and well priced at $9 each. Hot cheese and pasta, nicely seasoned makes a great comfort food dish, esp when paired with glasses of red wine.
Glad we decided to spend our final evening at this special unique place!
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| truffle strukli on left and pumpkin seed strukli on right |
No room for dessert after this meal!
I highly recommend visiting Croatia! A beautiful country with plenty to see and do. Hopefully, we'll return one day....
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